Choosing Backpacking Clothing and Footwear

This may seem really obvious but the sole purpose of clothing is to allow you to cope with weather outside of your normal comfort range. This is quite a big topic and so have split it down accordingly. There is no need to spend vast sums on heavy designer clothing if you know what you are looking for. This page should help

• Overview - why wear clothes at all?
• Personal Conditioning - dress for your body and level of fitness
• Fabric - how to choose clothes based on the fabric and not the brand
• Season - dress for the weather that you have
• Layering - how to mix fabrics and layers to achieve the best mix for the weather
• Summary

Overview

It follows from this then that the clothing you take with you should be based both on the expected weather conditions (that is what is normal for this location and time of year) and also on your own tolerance to weather.

For example, when I am outdoors I tend to be quite warm-blooded and now with a few extra layers of fat tend to be quite resistant to both heat and cold. For me then it is comfortable (and safe) to carry fewer and lighter clothes than someone who is more sensitive to the weather.

I have become sold on the idea of choosing performance fabrics over more traditional alternatives. I have not become sold on the idea of using designer brands over less popular brands. Choice of fabric makes a difference but you do not need to pay a premium for the label that is attached to it. GoreTex is still GoreTex whether it is sold by D&G or WalMart.

Personal conditioning

In 2006 I have spent quite a bit of time outdoors and camping out. I've lost track of how much but it must be somewhere between 4 and 8 weeks spread out over the year with most of it being in the colder parts of the year. This has meant that my body has become used to lower ambient temperatures.

The other big thing that helps is that over the years I have steadily reduced my central heating settings so that in winter the ambient temperature of the house is around 15-18C/60-65F. Now this is below minimum legal temperatures for an office in the UK but I now find it quite comfortable.

Remember that we are hot-blooded creatures and not lizards. Our bodies can produce quite a lot of heat to keep us warm. The fact that they do not is because we have forgotten how. Prolonged exposure to cooler temperatures will help. This should be done gradually and slowly - think of it as setting the heating so that it is 'not quite warm' or 'only just warm' and when it becomes comfortable turn down the thermostat. (This will make a huge difference to your heating bills. The cost of heating is in maintaining the difference between ambient and indoor temperatures).

It may sound silly but lots of people are used to over-dressing for the weather simply because that is what they have been taught. "Put your coat on or you will get cold" is a habit that many learn even when it is not that cold. It is quite simple really, if you are sweating a lot then you are wearing too many clothes.

If you are exercising vigorously then you will need to wear very little clothing even if the weather is cold. However if you stop exercising then you will need to wear extra clothing.

Nighttime temperatures can vary wildly when compared with daytime temperatures and how warm you feel will depend as much on your own sensitivity to cold at night as it will on your choice of sleeping bag.

Fabrics

With some fabrics such as Gore-Tex it is important to check which variation of the product it is. Gore-Tex produce several different performance fabrics with several different price points.

Given two garments made out of the same fabric you will find that the key difference between two garments (apart from the label) will be the detailing/accessories - such as pockets - and maybe the cut of the garment. Cheaper garments may use less fabric with few seams and so be more restrictive or a closer fit.

In practice, I have found that money spent on fabrics is well worth it and money spent on labels is not.

Different fabrics have different key characteristics - some are good for wicking, some for warmth and some are waterproof. Many modern fabrics combine properties and so this can reduce the number of garments you need to carry. For example a waterproof cloth is always windproof so a light waterproof that is breathable could also be used as a windproof layer. Likewise many windproof garments will resist a light shower.

Season

This should be obvious but it is not always so. In the summer (in most temperate climates) there should be no need for you to take warm outer layers with you. A waterproof garment may be useful but there is no need for it to be 3-layer Gore-Tex; instead a very breathable Pertex shell may suffice.

The key here is to use your knowledge of the local weather and terrain to reduce your clothing bulk and weight. This is best done based on your own experience.

If you were to meet me in the mountains in the summer there is a very good chance that I would be carrying some sort of waterproof top even if the forecast is clear blue skies. I tend to do this because I have seen clouds and rain roll in very fast regardless of what the weather or satellite image forecasts have shown.

In contrast, if I am walking around in lowland areas or around a city then I may not bother carrying any sort of waterproof in the summer if the weather forecast is reasonable. Instead I will rely on the fact that I am used to and comfortable in wet weather unless it is also cold.

In winter in you can be sure that I will always have at least a waterproof coat with me again regardless of the forecast. This is simply because I have yet to find a reliable weather forecast.

What might be a surprise to you is the difference between summer and winter clothing weight might only be the weight of a micro-fleece.

In contrast If I camping out overnight in the mountains then I might well have a fleece jacket with me even if I wasn't going to wear it during the daytime. This just reflects the fact that nighttime temperatures can be so much colder.

Layering

This is a lot less important than it used to be simply because fabrics have improved so much and modern fabrics can perform several functions.

The basic principle is that the inner layer which is next to your skin should feel comfortable and the outer layer should protect you from the elements - whether it be cold, rain, snow or heat. There is no reaosn why one garment cannot perform several or all of these functions. For instance Paramo produce garaments that are warm, waterproof and windproof. So, in theory a paramo smock and a wicking T-shirt would take care of your winter clothing for your torso.

Naturally the layers you wear and the garments chosen will vary based on the weather. So, let's break this down into the following categories:

1. Hot and dry
2. Cold and wet
3. Cold and dry

There are other variations such as jungle but these are quite specialist and you are unlikely to meet them.

Often the best way to decide what to wear is to look at the natives of a country with a similar climate. For example desert-dwellers choose light loose fitting clothing that protects against sun and sand. If it works for them why would it not work for you?

1. Layering - Hot and Dry

The garments you choose here will depend somewhat on the strength of the Sun and on the local wildlife - bugs and critters. Sunburn can be a life-threatening condition and so caution might be a wise choice in the desert.

Footwear

I am now a huge fan of performance sandals for warm weather. They are by far the most comfortable thing to wear even in rocky terrain.

The only issuse I have found is that it is not sensible to wear sandals in areas where there are lots of biting insects - such as midges - or where there is a risk of ticks and other parasites.

It is worth shopping around for sandals. A cheap pair will work almost as well as a pair costing 2 or 3 times as much.

If sandals are not suitable then a pair of trainers or fabric boots worn with thin wicking socks is the next best choice.

Legs

What you choose to wear on your legs depends largely on other factors such as the strength of the sun and the presence of biting insects or poisonous or spiky plants.

A Loose-fitting pair of shorts is the ideal summer choice. If the sun is too strong or insects are a problem then a pair of thin (but sunproof SPF30) and loose synthetic wicking trousers (polyester, polyester/viscose, polyamide, polyester/nylon). Avoid cotton or poly-cotton or pure nylon. Remember, buy the fabric not the brand.

Upper Torso

If the sun is not too intense (desert) then the sensible thing to wear will be a high wicking T-shirt (typically polyester or woven polyester) or a loose-fitting short-sleeved shirt. I often find that a good quality loose-fitting and wicking long-sleeve shirt can be more comfortable than just a T-shirt in hot weather.

A shirt with mesh panels sewn into it to allow ventillation can work very well. Fabrics will again be synthetic and will probably be the same as for the trousers. My own favourite shirt is a Craghoppers shirt that is a polyester/nylon mix.

Head

Something to cover the head is essential. I tend to wear a French Foreign Legion style of baseball cap which is made of light cotton and has fabric that covers the neck and ears. It may look silly but it is very effective and came out of a sales bargain bin.

If I don't wear a hat then I will tend to get sunburn on the neck and I will tend to get headaches.

2. Layering - Cold and Wet

In this case you have two competing problems. The first problem is the need to wick sweat away from your skin and the second problem is the desire to keep the rain out (or at least keep you warm). What may not be obvious is that you rainwear will have a big impact on the clothes that you wear underneath.

Something like Gore-Tex will feel cold and clammy next to the skin and so you will need a layer that makes sure that this does not happen. In contrast some of the pertex fabrics will continue to feel comfortable when next to the skin even if on the outside they are damp. Paramo and others do produce some very good directional fabrics that address some of these issues.

The key point is that just adding a waterproof layer on top of whatever you normally wear will not always work very well.

Footwear

If I am expecting lots of wet weather (and so wet underfoot) I do tend to opt for a pair of 'traditional' leather walking boots. They may be heavier on the feet than trainers or fabric boots but I have found them to be very comfortable even after prolonged rain. The pair that I own is manufactured by Zamberlan and use a 'waterproof' leather. Leather is very breathable and although it may let moisture in over time the worst net result is that you end up with slightly damp but warm feet. I always wear a single pair of Coolmax hiking socks which are very comfortable and excellent at wicking. There is no need to layer socks if you use modern socks designed for the purpose.

When I have tried trainers I just end up with cold wet feet and maybe blisters as well.

Legs

Legs seem to be a bit of a lost cause. Goretex leggings are very heavy and expensive even if they are waterproof. Instead I tend to wear lighter Dri-Lite or pertext leggings. They are not 100% waterproof but since legs are working very hard the extra breathability is welcome. Of course that means that the trousers underneath will get wet.

For trousers I tend to wear a pair that is similar to my summer pair although they may have a slightly heavier and warmer fabric. I assume that they will become damp and so choose a fabric (from above) that will still feel comfortable if damp and warm.

In New Zealand a popular style is to wear shorts under pertex leggings. This will work well in warmer weather. Although in 'summer' conditions I often find that shorts on their own with no leggings are OK.

I do not tend to bother with gaiters/spats even when crossing grassland. I don't mind the bottom of my trousers being wet and I find this more comfortable than a pair of sweaty gaiters/spats.

Upper Torso

This is where things begin to get more complicated. Your waterproof layer will also be windproof and this will boost the effectiveness of any middle layers. Your waterproof layer will also result in increased moisture content in the middle layers. Whether or not this moisture feels damp will depend on the fabrics.

Now a good wicking layer next to the skin is essential. I personally like some of the modern woven polyester fabrics which look a little like mesh and feel rough to the touch. Most manufacturers produce base layers in this fabric and prices can vary from anything between £8 and £50 for no apparent reason.

Whilst I normally like to wear close-fitting T-shirt base layers I have found that in wet weather a long-sleeved top will be better. Without it my arms will feel cold because of the way Gore-Text works.

On top of this I will wear long-sleeved summer or warmer winter shirt unless it is particularly cold in which case I might wear a close-fitting microfleece. The key point is that the waterproof coat adds warmth and so a thinner middle layer is required to compensate.

Head & Hands

All my jackets have hoods which I use.

I have just about given upon the concept of a pair of gloves that wil keep my hands dry. Most of the time I do not bother with gloves at all. When I do wear gloves I tend to wear a pair made of Thinsulate which is a cheap insulating material that still feels warm even when wet. The biggest issue with hands is preventing them becoming too cold to be usable. I like to have full use of fingers so that I can use GPS, Map and compass etc.

I have tried using various Gore-Tex gloves. Even if they do work for a while what often happens is that rain manages to creep down your arm into the glove and then you still have cold, wet hands.

3. Layering - Cold and Dry

This is the easiest of all conditions to dress for and my personal favourite weather conditions. The only difference between winter cold (sub-zero C) and artic cold (of which I have no experience) is the margin for error.

Cardinal rules are always the same - to keep the skin dry and minimise the production of sweat. It also now becomes more critical to prevent cold air having contact with naked flesh - which means overlapping layers of insulation without gaps.

Footwear

In these conditions it is almost certain that I will be wearing a pair of leather boots with a thick air of hiking socks. In deep snow I might prefer plastic boots for the warmth and support but I find them hard work. Most of the time I find that leather boots are warm enough unless you are standing around.

If here is snow around or it is particularly cold then I will be using gaiters to keep cold air away from my boots and lower leg. This is one of the very few occaisions where you will find gatiers in my bag.

It is worth mentioning Crampons at this point. They can be useful for some walkers in some conditions but their use requires some skill. They are useful on ice but can be dangerous on snow and verglass (ice on rock).

Legs

Most of the time I will just wear a normal pair of walking trousers (maybe even my summer ones). To add warmth (and cut wind-chill) I will ofent just wear a pair of light Pertex leggings over the top. If the weather is really cold then I might also wear a pair of thermal leggings or lycra cycle leggings (which I own and fnd more comfortable).

With legs I focus on ensuring that my legs are completely free to move and will remain warm. Most of the time lycra leggings worn under normal walking trousers work well. The leggings are slippery, wick moisture and allow free-movement of the legs inside the trousers making them very comfortable.

Upper Torso

At last we are getting close to a classic set of layers.

I will always be wearing a wicking base layer. On top of that will be a close-fitting micro-fleece or a wicking shirt and polartec fleece jacket. I might also wear a light waterproof jacket over the top to protect against biting winds.

In cold conditions I tend to slightly underdress in order that I sweat a lot less and so the clothing layers have less wicking to do. When I stop I can always put on another layer and warm up without worrying about sweat induced chill.

Head & Hands

Some sort of insulating hat or balaclava is a must. In very cold conditions a balaclava that goes down to the kneck wins. If I find that my head is too hot then I will of course remove the hat/balaclava for a while.

Gloves or mittens are a given. In snow conditions the best pair of mittens ever worn were made of pre-shrunk knitted wool. They would cake with snow but still remain comfortable and warm.

Summary

Fundamentally what you are trying to dress for the conditions that you will expect to meet and to dress comfortably for those conditions based on your own personal levels of fitness. There is no need to spend vast sums of money on clothing if you shop based on fabrics and not brands.

My favourite microfleece (a close-fitting polo-kneck fleece by Berghaus) must be at least 10 years old but I have struggled to find anything to match it at sensible prices. It works so well because the fabric is very good and the cut of the garment works effectively to stop airflow.