Make an Ultralight Waterproof Kilt Mk2 (102g / £5+)

Background

I found the Mk1 to be incredibly comfortable and ideal for all but the most extreme driving rain.

One thing that I found irrating was that it was a single-use garment and the other main issue for me was that at the extreme of my stride I might sometimes find the kilt restrictive over some ground - but that is because I have a very long stride.

When I was walking the cotswold way it rained every day for many hours. At night my tarp was barely big enough (by design) but because it was a low-profile tarp there was very little room to move around under it and nowhere dry to put kit that was not on the main bathtub floor (that had to stay dry).

My idea was then to create a new simpler garment that could be used during the day as a waterproof and at night could be used as a groundsheet for kit and as a knealing point.

Fabric

For my kilt I used 0.75m off a 1.5m roll of Sil-Nylon. This is quite expensive when compared with 2oz PU-Coated nylon but is 100% waterproof and at least 5x Stronger.

Spinnaker fabric may be up to 20% lighter but it is important to note that the press-studs themselves are surprisingly heavy and so lighter plastic studs (that require hand-stitching) will be both cheaper and save significant weight.

[I've chosen to produce something slightly heavier that will withstand rougher treatment and remain waterproof whatever the conditions]

Materials

• 0.75m-1m x 1.5m lightweight waterproof fabric
• 1 pack of 10 (or 6) press-studs. Anything from 5-10mm should be fine. [I've used 9mm Jersey ones that require a hammer or a special tool to fit]
• A small scrap of 4oz fabric for reinforcement of press-studs or some scrap SilNylon etc.
• 0.5m of 2-4mm Nylon rope
• 1x Spring-loaded rope toggle / grip [like on a jacket]

Pattern

The pattern is amazingly simple! It's just .75m or less off the end of a roll of 1.5m fabric.

The height is determined by measuring from the top of your hip-bone to about 5-10cm below your knee. This is long enough to allow for riding up during walking and to allow for the effect of driving rain etc. It keeps the worst of it off.

You will need to keep a 75cm x 3cm piece of Silnylon for the rope/belt guide. If you are short of fabric snip this from the SIDE of the fabric to reduce its width to 147cm.

Note: If you wish you may also fit additional ferrules (brass holes) to allow for use with tent pegs.

Construction - Part 1: Main Garment

1. Hem all 4 edges of the fabric using a rolled-hem foot (or by folding and stitching if you do not have one).

2. Reinforce all 4 corners with a small piece of fabric (say 2.5cm x 2.5cm ) on the inside of the fabric. This will be where the press-studs fit.

3. Wrap the fabric around your waist when wearing your normal walking clothes so that the overlapping occurs at the front. Slacken the fabric off by about 5cm so that you can now comfortably get your hand down between the fabric and your clothing.

4. Mark the fabric to show where the overlapping edges are.

5. On each mark sew a reinforcing patch ready for a press-stud

6. Sew two 3cm x 37.5cm (or less) fabric strips onto the outside of the garment (see diagram) to form two tubes that will create the guides for your rope/belt.

Construction - Part 2: Belt

The above picture shows the finished belt with the belt tubes starting inside the two front press-studs. [Click on Picture to enlarge]

1. Feed your rope through both sections of the belt tubes

2. Grasp the middle part (centre above), fold it and feed the loop through the toggle.

4. Tie a single knot in the loop so that the toggle cannot pull of.

5. Cut the cord as shown above so that there is a little bit of slack in the cord and there is 2-3cm length free either side.

6. Fold the loose end of the cord on either side so that it overlaps with the tube.

7. Machine-stitch several times over both the outer piece of cord and the piece inside the tube on both the left and right sides as shown above. [This creates a strong non-slip bond between the cord and two pieces of fabric.

Construction - Part 3: Press Studs

With the press-studs I use that are fitted using either a hammer or a special tool you get only ONE chance to get it right. Once the stud is fitted it cannot be removed without serious damage to the surrounding fabric. It also cannot be re-used. This means that you need to get it right FRIST TIME.

1. Do just ONE press-stud at a time!!!!

2. Wrap the garment around your body so that you can be certain which way the studs are fitted!!!

3. Place Stud #1 on the garment, whilst still on your body to check the direction of the stud. Fit it.

4. Repeat for Stud #2. You may use Stud #1 as a fitting guide.

5. Stud #3 is fitted aligned with Stud #1 on the left and indented by abour 3cm on the right. This gives a slight fabric overlap.

6. Studs #4 and #5 are optional. They help to prevent the kilt flapping in strong winds.

7. Stud #6 is optional and is matched by an optional 8cm strap which has a matching stud on the end. This sis shown in the picture. It allows people with very long strides (like me) to gain an extra bit of movement from the kilt without using extra fabric.

Wearing

1. Place around waist and secure press studs #1 and #2

2. Tighten belt

3. If fitted secure strap on stuf #6

4. In extreme weather you may need to use studs #3, #4, #5

5. Over very rough ground it may be more comfortable to use studs #4 and/or #5 and unfix #3 / #6